Hyderabadi cuisine under Arab, Chinese invasion

Hyderabad, Feb 9 (INN): It is an invasion of a different kind. First the Chinese, and now the Arabs are attacking an integral part of Hyderabadi identity. The Union Government may go into a tizzy with Chinese incursions in Arunachal Pradesh, while oil companies are cursing under their breath at the Arabs for hiking fuel prices, but closer to home, the 'Ustads' are becoming increasingly worried about the fact that the pride of the city is under threat.

The pride of the city, craved by people from all around the world, famous for its distinct taste, the Biryani of Hyderabad is gradually being edged out from restaurants and hotels in the city itself. Though not directly responsible, the Arabs and Chinese are being cursed by the Ustads (the chefs) who say that their brand of fast food is partly responsible for more and more restaurants and hotels replacing the Hyderabadi biryani with 'shawarma', 'fried rice,' and 'noodles'. The restaurant owners though express helplessness.

They claim that the public itself prefers the Shawarma (a sandwich made of bread and filled with layers of meat) or the Chinese fast food. The hoteliers claim that the rising prices of essentials have essentially put the biryani out of reach for a person who eats out every day. Compared to the biryani which is sold at an average of Rs 100, the Chinese and Arabian food are sold at around Rs 30, depending on where you buy it.

This apart, the 'alternative' appeal of the Shawarma and noodles is luring away the traditional clientele from the biryani. Biryani hotels, once ubiquitous, are now gradually making way to 'fast food' stalls on their premises, while Shawarma centres are cropping up in around the city.

One hotel owner told INN that compared from earlier, the profit margins have increased drastically ever since he had turned to selling 'Shawarma'. Chand Bhai turned his 'biryani' hotel at Mallepally into a Chinese fast food cum-Arabian Shawarma stall. He says, 'Ever since I decided to switch over, I am very glad. The business has increased by leaps and bounds. Every day I get around 20-30 kg chicken and the same quantity of Lamb's meat. This is sold out by the end of the day.'

The chicken Shawarma is sold for Rs 30 to Rs 35 and the mutton Shawarma is priced at Rs 40-Rs 45. For the hotel owners, the best part is that there are customers waiting at any given point of the day. Chand Bhai added, 'Beside this, the 30-40 kg noodles that I get in the morning is sold out by around 10 PM. Business reaches its peak during lunch time, and we even find customers waiting just to place their orders.' He said that the hotel's daily income touches around Rs 2,000 per day.

On the other hand, the Ustads are a angry lot. They say that they were a respected lot but this is being gradually changed. Once in huge demand, the Ustads are now being only engaged for weddings or other functions.

'I remember very well that till 1999 there were approximately 100 Biryani hotels, large and small, in the city. Most of our customers consisted of auto-rickshaw drivers and office going people and others who come to shop. They used to prefer having biryani, and some in fact wanted to taste it before returning home. But these days the 'alternative' foods are gradually edging out the Biryani, especially when the hotels are patronizing the customers,' laments Dastagir Ustad.